Ready to embark on a thrilling journey along the Appalachian Trail in the Eastern United States, extending almost 2,100 miles between Springer Mountain in Georgia and Mount Katahdin in Maine, and passing through 14 states? Ever thought about the physical and mental demands of such a trek? What if your main companion was an old friend with a troubled past? What happens when their adventure reveals the trail's transformative power, challenges, and the bond between nature and companionship?

A Walk in the Woods: Rediscovering America on the Appalachian Trail

After moving with his family to New Hampshire, Bill Bryson discovered a path that led into the woods on the edge of their town. Little did he know it was the famed Appalachian Trail, stretching over 2,100 miles from Georgia to Maine. 

As Bryson pondered the idea of hiking this grand trail, he was filled with a mix of excitement and apprehension. The allure of getting fit, reconnecting with nature, and gaining some outdoor cred was irresistible. Yet, he was also aware of the dangers—rattlesnakes, bears, loony hillbillies, and a plethora of diseases.

Despite these fears, Bryson resolved to embark on this journey. He prepared meticulously, purchasing all necessary gear and reading up on survival tips. Bear attacks, in particular, haunted his thoughts. Stephen Herrero’s book, "Bear Attacks: Their Causes and Avoidance", filled his nights with terrifying scenarios of people mauled in their tents or stalked silently by black bears.

As the departure date approached, Bryson received a surprising call from an old friend, Stephen Katz, who wanted to join him. Katz and Bryson had a history, having traveled through Europe together, but they had lost touch over the years. Katz was now sober after a rough patch and eager for adventure.

Katz arrived in New Hampshire, noticeably larger and seemingly underprepared. His luggage was filled with Snickers bars, and he had a peculiar need to eat constantly due to seizures caused by a past drug incident. Despite Bryson's concerns, they shopped for provisions and packed their gear, though Katz's packing style left much to be desired.

On their way to the airport, Bryson's wife presented him with a walking stick from their children, a touching gesture that made him want to stay. But soon they were on their way, facing warnings of record cold and potential wolf encounters in Georgia. As they boarded the plane, Bryson couldn't help but feel a mix of dread and excitement for the journey ahead.

Ready to Conquer the Appalachian Trail with an Old Friend and Bear Fears?

In the summer of 1921, Benton MacKaye, a visionary who had recently faced personal and professional setbacks, shared his ambitious plan for a long-distance hiking trail with his friend Charles Whitaker. This trail, the Appalachian Trail (AT), was envisioned not just as a hiking path but as a network of mountaintop work camps and woodland villages to reconnect urban workers with nature.

Despite several hiking clubs in the eastern U.S., no progress on the AT was made until Myron Avery, a determined lawyer, took over in 1930. Avery, who was not on friendly terms with MacKaye, extended the trail's planned length to over 2,000 miles and ensured its construction, completing it in 1937. Remarkably, the AT was built with volunteer labor and minimal publicity.

Today, the AT spans 2,100 miles and remains largely free of commercialism, maintained by volunteers. However, it has been rerouted multiple times due to development and environmental challenges.

Starting the trail is a daunting task, as recounted by Katz and Bryson, who were driven to the trailhead by Wes Wisson. Despite their initial enthusiasm, they quickly realized the physical and mental demands of hiking the AT. The trail's rugged terrain often led to moments of despair and unexpected challenges, such as Katz throwing away essential supplies in frustration.

The journey was not without its characters. They met Mary Ellen, an inexperienced yet talkative hiker who critiqued their gear and pace. Despite her constant presence and unsolicited advice, they found moments of camaraderie and humor, especially during the stops for food and rest.

The AT experience was a test of endurance, resilience, and the ability to find joy in simple pleasures. From the initial struggles to the unexpected friendships, the journey along the AT was a blend of hardship and memorable encounters, culminating in a deep appreciation for the natural world and the human spirit.

Trailblazers of the Appalachian: From Visionary MacKaye to Determined Avery

Bryson and Katz were camped at Indian Grave Gap, feeling listless after twenty-two miles of hiking. The dense trees offered limited views, and their only company was the prattling Mary Ellen. She claimed she didn’t sweat or dream, which Katz, ever the joker, argued was a sign of low intelligence.

In their private moments, Katz and Bryson planned to ditch Mary Ellen and hike to Dicks Creek Gap, then hitchhike to Hiawassee for a motel stay. The next day, they surprised Mary Ellen with their brisk pace. Exhausted but determined, they reached U.S. Highway 76, where they tried hitchhiking. Trail Magic, a phenomenon where good fortune finds hikers in need, brought them a lift from a young, drunk couple in a baby blue Pontiac Trans Am. They were on their way to get married.

Dropped at Mull's Motel in Hiawassee, they found the place unsettling, reminiscent of the eerie setting from James Dickey's "Deliverance" movie. The motel's eccentric staff added to the oddness. After settling in, they enjoyed a meal at the Georgia Mountain Restaurant, where Katz felt guilty for leaving Mary Ellen behind. His concern was justified, but it turned out she had found other hikers and camped safely.

Two days later, they learned Mary Ellen had dropped out due to blisters. Hiking distances felt monumental, and the world’s enormity became their secret. They trudged through endless woods, facing a blizzard on Big Butt Mountain. The narrow, icy trail was treacherous, but they miraculously found a shelter shared with a father-son duo from Chattanooga.

The storm worsened, and they struggled to reach Rainbow Springs Campground. Jim and Heath, the father-son pair, reappeared and offered them a lift. The campground was full of fellow hikers, and the bunkhouse was basic and uninviting. They felt trapped by the snow, but a lift to Franklin provided a brief respite.

Franklin offered little to do, and boredom set in. Desperate to escape, they returned to the trail despite Katz's reluctance. The snow was deep but passable, and the weather improved. The sun melted the snow, and by the third day, Bryson was very happy just to walk.

Did Trail Magic Save These Hikers from a Deliverance Nightmare?

For two days, Katz barely spoke to Bryson. On the second night, Bryson heard the sound of a can opening from Katz's tent. "Cream soda, Bryson. And you’re not getting any," Katz declared, reveling in his small rebellion. He punctuated his enjoyment with exaggerated slurping noises, further emphasizing his point. By morning, Katz was back to his usual self.

Katz never truly embraced the hiking life, though he tried. To him, it was mostly a tiring, dirty slog. Meanwhile, Bryson was content just pushing forward, his focus sometimes amusing or annoying Katz. One day, Katz caught up to Bryson looking even more disheveled than usual, twigs in his hair and a new tear on his shirt. “How did you get around that fallen tree?” Katz asked. Bryson had no recollection of it, which only exasperated Katz further.

Two hours later, they had a rare moment of awe. The trees parted to reveal the Smokies, a breathtaking panorama of craggy mountains and hazy valleys. Far below lay Fontana Lake, with its impressive hydroelectric dam. They hurried down to the visitors' center, only to find it closed. With vending machines empty and restrooms locked, they pushed on, now entering the Great Smoky Mountains National Park with its dense forests and rigorous trails.

Their journey through the Smokies was both challenging and enlightening. They encountered a staggering variety of plant and animal life, including the park's famous bears and elusive salamanders. However, the Park Service's neglect was evident, with dying trees and vanishing species highlighting the park's fragility.

One night at Birch Spring Gap Shelter, they discovered it was infested with fearless rodents. Katz took violent action against the mice, and despite the chaos, woke up surprisingly chipper, proud of his "kills." The next day brought relentless rain, turning the trail into a muddy stream. After several days of misery, they reached Clingmans Dome, only to be greeted by fog and more rain. Desperate for civilization, they decided to head to Gatlinburg.

Gatlinburg was a jarring return to civilization, with its tacky attractions and overpriced meals. Overwhelmed by the realization of how little of the trail they'd covered, they decided to skip ahead to the more hiker-friendly Blue Ridge Mountains in Virginia. After a series of frustrating calls to local cab companies, they found a driver willing to take them to Knoxville, where they could rent a car and drive to Roanoke.

And so, just like that, they set off for the sweet green hills of old Virginia, eager for a new chapter in their Appalachian adventure.

Bryson and Katz: From Smoky Trails to Gatlinburg Tales

In the summer of 1948, Earl Shaffer, recently discharged from the army, made history as the first person to hike the Appalachian Trail (AT) end-to-end in one season. With no tent and only rudimentary maps, Shaffer trekked 123 days through overgrown, poorly marked paths, from Georgia to Maine. 

Ironically, while Shaffer was hiking, an article in the Appalachian Trailway News claimed such a feat was impossible. The trail was in disrepair, overgrown due to logging, and poorly marked, leading Shaffer to frequently lose his way. Despite these challenges, he completed the journey, though initially, no one believed him until he presented photos and his trail journal.

Shaffer's achievement brought renewed attention to the AT, though it soon faded back into obscurity. By the 1960s, the trail was in jeopardy, facing encroachments from commercial development. Salvation came through Secretary of the Interior Stewart Udall, who, passionate about hiking, helped pass the National Trails System Act in 1968. This act protected the AT, transforming it into a de facto national park and securing funds for land purchases to create a wilderness buffer.

Since Shaffer's hike, about 4,000 others have completed the trail, either as "thru-hikers" in a single season or "section hikers" over several years. Noteworthy accomplishments include a blind man hiking with his seeing-eye dog and an elderly man completing the trail on crutches. Among these, Emma “Grandma” Gatewood stands out for her persistence despite being poorly equipped and frequently getting lost.

A particularly inspiring story is of Woodrow Murphy, who weighed 350 pounds and undertook the hike to lose weight. Starting at five miles a day, he gradually increased his pace and succeeded in shedding fifty-three pounds by the end of his journey.

The AT, which once seemed doomed, now thrives, largely protected as wilderness, with only a small portion running along public roads. The trail continues to challenge and inspire, proving that with determination, the seemingly impossible can be achieved.

Did Earl Shaffer's Historic Appalachian Trail Hike Defy Impossible Odds?

Bill Bryson and his friend Katz are hiking the Appalachian Trail, a journey that sees them covering more ground in twenty minutes than the average American walks in a week. Despite their ambition, they find themselves in a country where walking is an anomaly. In Hanover, a picturesque New England town where they settle, Bryson observes that people drive even the shortest distances, a stark contrast to their hiking endeavor.

Their journey takes them to Waynesboro, where Bryson's attempt to buy insect repellent turns into a comical adventure as he navigates pedestrian-unfriendly urban sprawl, dodging traffic and scrambling through muddy creeks. Meanwhile, Katz, delighting in the simplicity of laundromat life, makes a new friend named Beulah, leading to a hilarious and slightly perilous encounter with her husband.

As they continue through Shenandoah National Park, Bryson is struck by the park's beauty and the challenges it faces, from pollution to invasive species. Despite these issues, the park remains enchanting, filled with wildlife and serene landscapes. The pair enjoy a rare luxury: occasionally stopping for cheeseburgers and Coke at park facilities, a welcome respite from their usual trail diet.

One night, Bryson and Katz are alarmed by noises in the dark, suspecting bears. The tension is high, but they survive the night unscathed, though Bryson vows never to sleep lightly in the woods again. They continue hiking, crossing paths with fellow travelers, including a high school teacher named John Connolly and a lone, speedy thru-hiker who gratefully accepts their extra food.

In a different, darker turn, Bryson later learns that a serene glade they passed through was the site of a tragic murder of two young women, a sobering reminder of the risks they face.

Their camaraderie and humor buoy them through hardships, including a miserable rainy day that leaves Bryson soaked and frustrated after losing his walking stick. Katz, in a rare display of loyalty, offers to retrieve it, but Bryson declines. They endure an uncomfortable night in a shelter with inconsiderate fellow hikers, leading Katz to exact a small, satisfying revenge by stealing their shoelaces.

Their journey is marked by both the beauty and the absurdities of the trail, highlighting the contrast between their rugged adventure and the sedentary lifestyle of modern America. Despite the challenges, the experience is transformative, filled with moments of humor, reflection, and a deep appreciation for the natural world.

Bill Bryson’s Hilarious and Harrowing Hike on the Appalachian Trail

Bryson's final adventure began with an 18-mile hike to Front Royal. His wife was to pick them up in two days if she could navigate from New Hampshire. Bryson had to leave to promote a book, selling over sixty copies despite its lack of trendy topics like effortless weight loss or the O.J. Simpson trial. 

Katz headed back to Des Moines for a summer job but promised to return in August for Maine's Hundred Mile Wilderness. Initially, he considered hiking the entire trail solo, but by now, he just laughed at the notion.

Reaching Front Royal exhausted, filthy, and trail-weary, they checked into a dire but cheap motel. Despite the motel's poor conditions, they enjoyed a steakhouse dinner and bought new clothes at Kmart the next morning. Feeling crisp and stylish, they wandered through town, eventually strolling along railroad tracks by the Shenandoah River. The day ended with tireless legs and abundant sunshine.

The next morning brought an eagerly anticipated reunion with Bryson's family, followed by awkward goodbyes with Katz at the airport. Returning to the trail in late May, Bryson found the woods near home alive with summer greenery and swarming insects. Despite an invigorating hike up Mount Moosilauke, hiking alone felt wrong without Katz.

Resuming at Front Royal, Bryson faced logistical challenges and discouragement, knowing he couldn't complete the trail in one season. Driving himself to Harpers Ferry, he found the town charming but eerily devoid of real life. At the Appalachian Trail Conference headquarters, he learned of the trail's dangers and the recent murders, which cast a shadow over the journey.

In Pennsylvania, the trail's notorious rocks and unreliable water sources lived up to their reputation. Bryson failed to find the trail initially, but eventually, he hiked up Piney Mountain, haunted by the story of a nearby murder. Alone and uneasy, he missed Katz and felt disconnected from the trail's purpose.

Exploring Pennsylvania's anthracite region, Bryson visited Centralia, a ghost town consumed by an underground coal fire. The eerie, smoking landscape was a stark reminder of nature's power. Later, a confrontation with a security guard near a devastated mountainside added to the surreal experience.

Ultimately, trying to hike the Appalachian Trail with a car proved frustrating. Reflecting on the journey, Bryson realized the trail demanded relentless progress, not sporadic exploration. The adventure, with its highs and lows, reaffirmed the bond between nature and companionship.

Can the Appalachian Trail Be Conquered Without a Companion?

Imagine the Appalachians towering as majestically as the Himalayas, their peaks piercing the sky some four miles high. Today, New Hampshire’s Mount Washington stands as a testament to those ancient heights, though it represents just a fraction of the grandeur that existed millions of years ago. These mountains, older than the oceans and continents as we know them, have seen continents drift apart, reunite, and collide, pushing the Appalachians up like a rucked carpet over 470 million years. 

Picture continents not just drifting but spinning like dancers, occasionally colliding with such force that parts of Africa, Europe, and even Antarctica became interwoven with the Appalachian chain. The Appalachians endured this tumultuous existence, rising and eroding away multiple times. Nature's relentless forces—from tiny lichen to massive glaciers—slowly wore them down, transporting their pieces grain by grain to the sea.

James Trefil’s vivid calculation brings this into perspective: a mountain stream can carry away about 1,000 cubic feet of mountain each year, like a single dump truck load, slowly but surely leveling a mountain over hundreds of millions of years. This cycle of rise and erosion has likely happened multiple times, a geological dance still debated among scientists.

In the Delaware Water Gap, Kittatinny Mountain stands as a window into this ancient world, its quartzite layers tilted at improbable angles, revealing the earth's dynamic history. This spot once drew summer tourists, including the famous artist George Innes. Yet, today, it’s a quiet place, overshadowed by highways and railways, though still offering a compelling glimpse of geological grandeur.

Walking in this area, with its well-maintained paths and excellent maps from the New York-New Jersey Trail Conference, immerses you in the history and beauty of the landscape. Despite the proximity of millions, the trails are often serene and lightly traveled, like Sunfish Pond—New Jersey’s first glacial feature encountered by northbound hikers.

The Appalachian Mountains, with their deep history and evolving landscapes, remind us of the earth’s incredible age and the slow, steady forces that shape our world. As you hike these ancient paths, you’re walking through millions of years of geological storytelling, each step connecting you with the planet's enduring saga.

Appalachian Echoes: Hiking Through Earth's Geological Masterpiece

Of all the unpredictable dangers in the wilderness, hypothermia stands out for its eerie and mysterious nature. In the summer of 1982, four youths and two men went canoeing in Banff National Park. They never returned, and the next morning, they were found floating dead in a calm lake, fully dressed, with no signs of distress. It was as if they had peacefully fallen asleep, victims of hypothermia despite the mild weather.

Contrary to popular belief, hypothermia often claims lives in temperate conditions rather than extreme cold. Many victims, like Richard Salinas who got lost in North Carolina’s Pisgah National Forest in 1990, perish due to unforeseen changes in weather and poor decision-making. Hypothermia sets in gradually, leading to confusion, irrational decisions, and often, tragic outcomes. Salinas abandoned his jacket and belongings, and eventually, his hypothermic state led him to attempt crossing a swollen river, which resulted in his death.

Known for their rugged beauty and challenging terrain, New Hampshire's White Mountains are notorious for their rapidly changing weather. Bryson's friend Bill, an experienced hiker and orthopedic surgeon, joined him on a hike up Mount Lafayette. The day started sunny, but as they neared the summit, a sudden fog rolled in, bringing a sharp drop in temperature. Ill-prepared without his waterproofs, Bryson quickly became drenched and cold.

As they continued, the wind picked up, and visibility dropped to fifteen feet. Hypothermia’s grip seemed imminent as Bryson became lightheaded and shivery. Despite the harsh conditions, they pushed on to Greenleaf Hut, a welcoming refuge where they warmed up with hot coffee.

A few days later, Bill and Bryson tackled Mount Washington, another challenging peak. This time, well-prepared with extra clothes, they hiked up the popular Tuckerman Ravine Trail. The summit was bustling with tourists who had arrived by car or cog railway, a stark contrast to the solitude of the trails. The summit's history, marked by a list of those who had perished, served as a sobering reminder of the mountain’s dangers.

The White Mountains' rich history includes once-grand hotels that dotted the landscape, attracting tourists in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. However, the rise of automobiles and changing vacation trends led to their decline. Today, the Mount Washington Hotel stands as a lone testament to that bygone era.

In the end, Bryson affirmed that the Appalachian Trail remains a symbol of enduring adventure and natural beauty, a journey through history and the elements, where preparation and respect for nature are paramount.

Can Hypothermia Strike Even in Mild Weather? Discover the Chilling Truth!

Stephen Katz burst into Bryson's Hanover living room with a wild grin and a bright yellow newspaper delivery bag slung over his shoulder. “I’ve had a brilliant idea,” he announced. They were heading to Maine in the morning, and he was delighted with his new plan to tackle the Appalachian Trail. “It’s capacious, waterproof, and weighs four ounces,” he beamed. “Perfect for hiking!”

Bryson stared at him, trying not to laugh. “Stephen, you can’t hike the Maine wilderness with a newspaper delivery bag.”

Thus began their final leg of the journey through the Hundred Mile Wilderness, the most remote and daunting stretch of the Appalachian Trail. Maine, with its deceptive serenity, presented them with almost 100,000 feet of climb—three Everests’ worth of rocky, forbidding slopes. Katz, breathless and sweat-soaked, struggled from the start. His pack grew lighter as he secretly discarded essentials, driven by desperation.

Their trek was relentless, marked by a near-drowning in a moss-covered lagoon and a slippery, treacherous river crossing. Katz’s resolve, however, never wavered. He persisted through every obstacle, even as the trail grew hotter and more oppressive under a killer heat wave. 

One evening, as they camped by a beautiful stream, Katz confessed his struggles with sobriety. “I love to drink,” he admitted, eyes distant with longing. His vulnerability brought them closer, yet the trail remained unforgiving. By the time they reached the daunting Barren-Chairback Range, they were pushed to their limits, grappling with steep climbs and dwindling water supplies.

Then, Katz disappeared. After hours of anxious searching, Bryson found him scratched and muddy but alive, by a trail sign. “I got lost,” he shrugged, recounting his misguided attempt to find water. They reunited, exhausted but relieved, and soon decided to leave the trail.

A fortuitous ride with two loggers delivered them to Milo, Maine. Joan Bishop’s boarding house welcomed them like a long-lost family, offering the comforts they had yearned for. Bryson and Katz strolled the sleepy streets of Milo, reflecting on their journey. “Do you feel bad about leaving the trail?” Katz asked.

“Yes and no,” Bryson replied, mirroring his sentiments. Despite missing the summit of Mount Katahdin, Katz declared, “We hiked the Appalachian Trail.” His confidence was infectious.

Back home, Bryson continued to hike, cherishing the woods’ boundless beauty and the profound lessons of patience and respect for nature. Though they didn’t conquer all 2,100 miles, they tried. And in the end, that was enough. They had hiked the Appalachian Trail.

Katz's Quest: Tackling the Appalachian Trail with Grit and Humor

Bill Bryson, after discovering the Appalachian Trail near his home, decides to embark on the journey of hiking it. Despite his fears of the dangers the trail might hold, he meticulously prepares for the journey. An old friend, Stephen Katz, surprises Bryson by joining him on this adventure. Despite Katz's lack of preparation and constant need to eat due to a past drug incident, the two set off on their journey. 

The Appalachian Trail, stretching over 2,100 miles, was envisioned by Benton MacKaye not just as a hiking path but as a network of mountaintop work camps and woodland villages. The trail was built with volunteer labor and has been rerouted multiple times due to development and environmental challenges. It demands physical and mental stamina from hikers, often leading to moments of despair and unexpected challenges.

Bryson and Katz's journey is filled with memorable characters, hardships, and encounters that culminate in a deep appreciation for the natural world and the human spirit. Their journey through the Smokies is challenging and enlightening, revealing a staggering variety of plant and animal life, but also the park's fragility due to neglect. The journey also sheds light on the absurdities of the trail and the contrast between their rugged adventure and the sedentary lifestyle of modern America. 

Despite the challenges, Bryson and Katz's journey is transformative and filled with moments of humor, reflection, and a deep appreciation for the natural world. Bryson's final adventure begins with an 18-mile hike to Front Royal. Despite logistical challenges and discouragement, Bryson recognizes the trail's demand for relentless progress, not sporadic exploration. He reflects on the bond between nature and companionship that the adventure reaffirmed.

The Appalachian Mountains, with their deep history and evolving landscapes, serve as a reminder of the earth’s incredible age and the slow, steady forces that shape our world. Hypothermia, an unpredictable danger in the wilderness, often claims lives in temperate conditions rather than extreme cold. It sets in gradually, leading to confusion, irrational decisions, and often, tragic outcomes.

Bryson and Katz's final leg of the journey through the Hundred Mile Wilderness is relentless and marked by struggles. Despite the daunting challenges, Katz's resolve never wavers. He persists through every obstacle, even as the trail grows hotter and more oppressive under a killer heat wave. Their journey ends in Milo, Maine, where they reflect on their adventure. 

Back home, Bryson continues to hike, cherishing the woods’ boundless beauty and the profound lessons of patience and respect for nature. Despite not conquering all 2,100 miles, they tried, and that was enough. They had hiked the Appalachian Trail.

Home

Trending Books

News & Mags

Relax

Curated

Collections

Key Ideas & Notes

Insights

Highlights & Bookmarks

Listening History

Key Ideas

#1