Ready to step into the personal life, challenges, and triumphs of famous authors in the vibrant city of Paris? Want to explore the intriguing relationship dynamics between Scott Fitzgerald, Zelda, and Ernest Hemingway? Keen to understand the artistic struggles and inspirations that led to masterpieces such as The Great Gatsby and The Sun Also Rises? Curious about the countless interactions with critics, poets, and savants that shaped one author's journey? Dive in to explore more!

A Moveable Feast

It was a cold, rainy day in Paris. The leaves lay sodden on the ground, and the cold wind drove the rain against the buses at the terminal. Hemingway avoided the Café des Amateurs, a dismal place filled with the drunken and unkempt. Instead, he found solace in a warm, friendly café on Place St.-Michel. Here, he ordered a café au lait, took out his notebook, and began to write.

A pretty girl with rain-freshened skin and crow-black hair entered and sat by the window. She distracted Hemingway, but he continued to write, feeling the warmth of the rum St. James. The story flowed, and when Hemingway finished, he felt both empty and satisfied. He ordered oysters and white wine, savoring their taste and planning a trip to a snowy place with his wife. They could afford it, and the change of scenery might inspire his writing.

When they returned to Paris, it was clear and cold. Their apartment was cozy, and Hemingway resumed his routine of writing in a small room overlooking the city. He learned to write one true sentence at a time and not to overthink his work. Gertrude Stein, a friend and mentor, taught him about writing and life. She had strong opinions and guided him on what to read and how to buy art instead of clothes.

Stein's companion was intimidating, but the warmth of their studio and the conversations were invaluable. Stein believed in avoiding "inaccrochable" stories—those that couldn’t be published or understood. Despite her advice, Hemingway continued to write what felt true to him.

One day, Stein declared that Hemingway's generation, the one that had fought in the war, was a "lost generation." Hemingway disagreed but didn't argue. Later, he found solace in Shakespeare and Company, Sylvia Beach's bookstore. Despite having no money, Sylvia welcomed him and let him borrow books. It was a haven for readers and writers, and Hemingway felt fortunate to have found it.

In their small, cheerful flat, Hemingway and his wife read, walked around the city, and dreamed of trips. They were always lucky, enjoying simple pleasures and each other's company. Paris, with its charm and challenges, was their home and inspiration.

Did Gertrude Stein's Lost Generation Label Shape Hemingway's Parisian Life and Writing?

One of the most captivating ways for Hemingway to experience Paris was by walking along the Seine. From the top of Rue Cardinal Lemoine, he could take a steep path down to the river, cross Boulevard Saint-Germain, and find himself by the Halle aux Vins, a cheerless wine storage facility. Across the Seine lay Île Saint-Louis with its narrow streets and beautiful old houses.

Bookstalls along the quais sometimes offered American books at a bargain, sold by people who didn't appreciate their value. One stall owner, a friend of Hemingway's, often sold English books cheaply, unsure if they were worth anything. She once asked him how to tell if they were good. "I can tell when I read them," Hemingway replied. But she remained skeptical, insisting on selling them quickly.

Further along the river, fishermen cast their lines skillfully, catching fish like goujon, which were delicious when fried. One of the best places to enjoy them was an open-air restaurant called La Pêche Miraculeuse in Bas Meudon, which had a splendid view reminiscent of a Sisley painting.

Hemingway often walked along the quais after work or when seeking clarity. The river, bustling with fishermen, beautiful barges, and tugs, was never lonely. The seasons changed visibly with the trees, and although the cold rains could beat back spring, the city always returned to life.

In the spring, Hemingway would wake early to write while his wife slept. The city was alive with the sounds of a goatherd and the smell of fresh goat milk. They would sometimes go racing at Enghien, hoping for a long shot to come through. They once had a horse, Chèvre d'Or, that nearly secured their financial stability before falling at the last jump.

Despite their financial struggles, they never thought of themselves as poor. They saw themselves as superior to the rich, living simply but well. They enjoyed racing, but it was more about the thrill and the escape than the gambling.

As Hemingway grew more involved in racing, it became clear that it took too much time. Eventually, he stopped, realizing that everything good and bad leaves an emptiness when it ends. He decided to focus on his writing, finding solace in the Luxembourg Gardens when he was hungry and without money. Hunger sharpened his perceptions, making the art in the Luxembourg Museum more vivid.

Sylvia Beach at Shakespeare and Company often worried about Hemingway's thinness and lack of food. One day, he received a letter with money from Der Querschnitt, a German publication. It was a relief, but he still struggled with the uncertainty of selling stories. Despite the challenges, Hemingway knew he had to write a novel, even if it seemed impossible at times.

Lipp's brasserie became a refuge where Hemingway could eat and think. He reflected on the stories he'd lost and the need to write longer pieces. Walking through the streets, Hemingway realized that he must write about what he knew best. In the end, it was the river and its life that inspired him, pushing him to keep writing, no matter the obstacles.

Parisian Tales: Strolling the Seine with Hemingway

The Closerie des Lilas was a favorite café of Hemingway's when he lived over the sawmill at 113 rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs in Paris. It was a warm and lovely place, especially with its tables under the trees and the big awnings along the boulevard. 

Hemingway had friends among the waiters, and the patrons were mostly elderly men in well-worn clothes with their wives or mistresses. These men were often scientists, savants, or professors, and they made for a comfortable, unpretentious atmosphere.

One notable visitor was Blaise Cendrars, a poet with a broken boxer's face and a pinned-up empty sleeve. He was an interesting companion to Hemingway, especially when he drank too much and started lying. 

Another memorable figure was Ford Madox Ford. One evening, he turned up at Hemingway's table, breathing heavily and holding himself like an upright hogshead. Conversations with Ford were always peculiar; he once claimed to have never told anyone about his efforts for humane slaughtering, despite having told Hemingway before. His presence often fouled the atmosphere, but he was a fellow writer, and Hemingway had to remember to be polite as Ezra Pound had advised.

Ezra Pound was always helping people, including trying to get T.S. Eliot out of his bank job so he could write poetry full-time. He founded "Bel Esprit" with Natalie Barney, a rich American patroness who had a small Greek temple in her garden. They intended to collect funds to support Eliot and other deserving artists. Despite Hemingway's efforts to raise money, the plan eventually fell through, partly due to Eliot's success with "The Waste Land" and subsequent support from a titled lady.

Ezra was a generous and disinterested friend, always loyal to his friends' work, even if his judgment was sometimes flawed. Hemingway helped him box in his studio, where he first met Wyndham Lewis, a man with a nasty demeanor who hoped to see Ezra hurt during their sparring. Despite Lewis's unpleasantness, Ezra remained kind and saintly in his dedication to helping others.

In those early days, Hemingway's writing routine involved working in cafés like the Closerie des Lilas, where distractions were inevitable. One day, a critic disrupted his flow, but Hemingway managed to continue writing despite his complaints. The critic sought Hemingway's help, but he bluntly told him to stop writing if it caused him so much distress. Eventually, Hemingway suggested he try criticism, which he found exciting and creative.

Life in Paris was full of such encounters for Hemingway, with each day bringing new experiences and challenges. From the warmth of the Closerie des Lilas to the camaraderie with friends like Pound and the eccentricities of figures like Ford and Lewis, it was a time of growth and learning for Hemingway, with plenty of stories to tell.

Can You Imagine the Literary Legends Who Gathered at Closerie des Lilas?

The ending with Gertrude Stein was indeed unusual for Hemingway. They had grown close and Hemingway had helped her with her work by typing manuscripts and reading proofs. She even gave Hemingway an open invitation to her home. 

However, there was a dramatic turn when Hemingway heard her pleading desperately with someone called "pussy" not to do something. This incident marked the beginning of the end of their friendship. Eventually, she quarreled with almost everyone around her, including her new friends.

Meeting Ernest Walsh, a poet marked for death, was another poignant episode. He arrived in Paris with two glamorous girls and a luxurious car. Despite being surrounded by wealth, Walsh's frail health and poetic intensity stood out. He tried to con Hemingway into believing he would win a prestigious literary award, which was a common tactic he used on others. Later, Joyce confirmed that Walsh had made similar promises to him.

In another instance, Evan Shipman, a poet and dear friend, and Hemingway often discussed literature over drinks at the Lilas. They pondered over Dostoevsky's flawed yet deeply moving writing and shared their admiration for other Russian authors. Evan's insights and humor were a constant source of comfort for Hemingway.

Ezra Pound, another significant figure, once entrusted Hemingway with a jar of opium for Ralph Cheever Dunning, a poet struggling with addiction. When Dunning climbed to the roof of his studio, refusing to come down, Hemingway brought the jar, but Dunning hurled it back at him in anger. Despite their efforts, Dunning's struggles continued, and the opium jar eventually disappeared.

These experiences highlight the complexities of friendships and the literary world in Paris. The blend of personal relationships, creative endeavors, and the ever-present challenges of life made for a rich and unforgettable tapestry for Hemingway.

Literary Giants and Tumultuous Ties: Hemingway's Parisian Encounters with Stein, Walsh, and Pound

Scott Fitzgerald was a naturally talented writer, much like the effortless beauty of a butterfly's wings. When Hemingway first met him, Fitzgerald entered the Dingo Bar in Paris with a famous pitcher, Dunc Chaplin. 

Scott, with his youthful appearance and pretty face that was almost unnerving, quickly became the center of attention. He praised Hemingway's writing, which embarrassed Hemingway as they were taught that praise to one's face was disgraceful.

As they drank champagne, Hemingway observed Scott closely, noticing his delicate features and slightly puffy face, likely from drinking. Despite his praise, Scott's face suddenly transformed into a death's head, alarming Hemingway. He suggested getting Scott to a first-aid station, but Chaplin assured Hemingway it was normal for Scott.

A few days later, when they met again, Scott seemed unaware of what had happened at the Dingo. He was puzzled and hurt that his new book, "The Great Gatsby," wasn't selling well despite good reviews. Over drinks, he shared his struggles and the economics of being a writer. He invited Hemingway on a trip to Lyon to retrieve his car, which the author eagerly accepted.

The trip was a series of misadventures. Scott missed the train, and when he finally arrived, they set off in a top-less Renault, frequently halted by rain. Scott's health anxieties surfaced, and he insisted he might die of a congestion of the lungs, a term he believed was a European malady. Despite his fears, he was fine.

During their journey, Scott revealed personal stories, including a tragic incident involving his wife Zelda and a French aviator. His storytelling was compelling, and Hemingway saw the depth of his emotions.

Back in Paris, Scott gave Hemingway "The Great Gatsby" to read. The book's brilliance convinced Hemingway to support him despite his flaws. His struggles were apparent, but so was his immense talent. This experience taught Hemingway the importance of choosing travel companions wisely and the complexities of friendships with troubled geniuses like Scott.

Is Scott Fitzgerald's Genius Underappreciated Despite the Brilliance of The Great Gatsby?

Scott Fitzgerald invited Hemingway and his companions to lunch at his rented flat in Paris, which was gloomy and filled only with his first books. Scott proudly showed them a ledger detailing his earnings from his stories and books. 

Zelda, Scott's wife, had a hangover from the previous night’s quarrel because Scott had decided to stop drinking and focus on his work. Zelda, feeling like a kill-joy, was formally pleasant but seemed preoccupied with the night’s party.

Their daughter spoke English with a cockney accent due to her English nanny. Scott was trying hard to work, but Zelda's jealousy and their lifestyle made it difficult. She would often drag him into drunken parties, hindering his productivity. Scott deeply loved Zelda but was jealous of her, especially when she made him feel insecure about his abilities.

In the spring, Scott and Zelda stayed at Cap d'Antibes, but Scott's drinking worsened. He started to disrupt Hemingway's work, and though their friendship remained strong, his struggles with sobriety and Zelda's influence were evident. Despite his challenges, he wrote one good story, "The Rich Boy."

Hemingway's time in Paris was interrupted by the cold weather, leading them to Schruns in Austria. Schruns was a sunny, welcoming place where they could ski, work, and enjoy the simple, friendly life. The skiing trips and the local culture became a significant part of their lives, and Hemingway managed to rewrite "The Sun Also Rises" there.

However, the arrival of the rich changed everything. They disrupted the tranquility, and the dynamics shifted. Eventually, Hemingway found himself caught in a complicated situation involving another woman, which led to a painful realization when he returned to his wife in Schruns.

Paris, despite its changes and challenges, remained a beloved place for Hemingway. Its memory is unique to each person who lived there, reflecting the city's timeless and transformative nature. This is how Paris was in the early days when they were very poor and very happy.

Scott Fitzgerald's Paris: A Tale of Struggles, Love, and Literary Triumphs

It was a rainy day in Paris when Hemingway found refuge in a cozy café at Place St.-Michel. He ordered a café au lait, took out his notebook, and began to write. A girl with rain-freshened skin distracted him, but Hemingway continued, warmed by rum St. James. The story flowed, leaving him satisfied like after making love. He celebrated with oysters and white wine, dreaming of a snowy trip with his wife.

When they returned to Paris, it was clear and cold. Their apartment was cozy, and Hemingway resumed writing, learning to craft one true sentence at a time. Gertrude Stein, his mentor, guided him on literature and art, despite her intimidating companion. She believed in avoiding stories that couldn’t be published. One day, she labeled his generation—the war generation—as "lost." Hemingway disagreed quietly and found solace in Shakespeare and Company, Sylvia Beach's bookstore, a haven for readers and writers.

In their small flat, Hemingway and his wife enjoyed simple pleasures, always feeling lucky. Paris, with its charm and challenges, inspired them. Walking along the Seine, they discovered hidden gems like bookstalls and open-air restaurants. The river, with its fishermen and beautiful barges, was a source of clarity and inspiration.

Early mornings were for writing, and spring brought the city's sounds and smells to life. Racing at Enghien was a thrilling escape, even though financial struggles persisted. Despite hardships, they never saw themselves as poor.

Lipp's brasserie became his refuge, and walking through the streets, Hemingway realized he must write about what he knew best. The Closerie des Lilas was another favorite café, filled with scientists and savants. Here, he met fascinating figures like Blaise Cendrars and Ford Madox Ford, enduring peculiar conversations for the sake of camaraderie.

Ezra Pound, always helping others, tried to support T.S. Eliot and other artists. Despite setbacks, Ezra's loyalty was unwavering. Hemingway's encounters with critics and friends in these cafés shaped his writing journey.

Scott Fitzgerald was a naturally talented writer. Their friendship began at the Dingo Bar and grew despite Fitzgerald's struggles with alcohol and his tumultuous relationship with Zelda. A trip to Lyon to retrieve Fitzgerald's car revealed his personal stories and insecurities. His brilliance shone through "The Great Gatsby," convincing Hemingway to support him.

Fitzgerald's rented flat in Paris was gloomy, filled with his first books. Zelda's jealousy and their lifestyle hindered his productivity. Despite their challenges, Fitzgerald wrote one good story, "The Rich Boy."

Hemingway's time in Paris ended with a move to Schruns, Austria, where they enjoyed skiing and simple life. However, the arrival of the rich disrupted their tranquility. A complicated situation led to a painful realization, but Paris remained a beloved memory.

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A Moveable Feast

Ernest Hemingway

Ready to step into the personal life, challenges, and triumphs of famous authors in the vibrant city of Paris?

Want to explore the intriguing relationship dynamics between Scott Fitzgerald, Zelda, and Ernest Hemingway?

Keen to understand the artistic struggles and inspirations that led to masterpieces such as The Great Gatsby and The Sun Also Rises?

Curious about the countless interactions with critics, poets, and savants that shaped one author's journey?

Dive in to explore more!

Key Ideas

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